Little lessons.
Plenty of sleep.

Start with rewards, not corrections.

Reward the behaviour you want with something your puppy genuinely values: a tiny piece of food, a toy, gentle praise or access to an enjoyable activity. Reward promptly so the connection is clear. Avoid shouting, physical correction and frightening equipment; punishment can increase worry without teaching a useful alternative.

Work in a quiet place for a minute or two, then pause. Several tiny, successful sessions are more useful than one long lesson. If your puppy disengages, becomes frantic or starts biting harder, make the next attempt easier and allow time to rest.

Useful first skills

Name response and attention

Say the puppy’s name once. When they look towards you, mark the moment with a consistent word such as “yes” and reward. Do not use their name repeatedly or mainly before something unpleasant.

Recall foundations

Begin indoors or in a securely enclosed place. Use a cheerful cue, move away slightly and reward generously when your puppy reaches you. Never punish a puppy for returning slowly; coming back to you should remain safe and worthwhile.

Settling and handling

Quietly reward your puppy for relaxing on a mat or bed. Pair very brief touches to paws, ears, mouth and coat with rewards, stopping before they become uncomfortable. This can make future grooming and veterinary care easier.

Keep a puppy occupied safely.

Good enrichment lets puppies sniff, search, chew, lick, explore and solve easy problems. Try scattering part of a meal in a safe area, hiding food in a loosely folded towel, using an appropriately sized food-releasing toy, offering a safe puppy chew, or letting the puppy investigate a supervised cardboard-box search game.

Use part of the puppy’s measured daily food rather than continually adding treats. Supervise new activities, remove damaged toys and avoid objects that can splinter, be swallowed or trap the jaw. Make puzzles easy at first; enrichment should be enjoyable, not frustrating.

Help a teething puppy chew safely.

Puppies usually begin losing their baby teeth at around three-and-a-half to four months, with most permanent teeth through by about six to seven months. More chewing and mouthing can be part of this stage, although every puppy develops at a slightly different pace.

A durable, appropriately sized, food-stuffable rubber toy can provide a useful outlet. In the Head & Paws household, Odie and Finn are particularly fond of this style of toy. Fill it with part of the puppy’s measured meal or a dog-safe filling; chilling it in the fridge may make it soothing and keep the activity interesting. The type matters more than a brand, and Head & Paws does not recommend a particular manufacturer.

Choose a flexible puppy-appropriate toy that cannot be swallowed or become lodged around the jaw. Supervise its first uses, inspect it regularly, remove it if pieces loosen or cracks appear, and clean and dry it according to its maker’s instructions. Count all fillings and treats within the puppy’s daily food allowance.

What to avoid

Very hard chews can damage teeth. Avoid antlers, bones, hooves, hard nylon items and anything that splinters or does not flex a little under pressure. Do not use human teething gels, human toothpaste or improvised household objects. Calmly redirect mouthing to a suitable toy rather than punishing the puppy.

When to ask the vet

Contact your vet if you notice persistent or heavy bleeding, marked swelling, a bad smell, a broken or discoloured tooth, facial swelling, obvious pain, difficulty eating, or an adult tooth appearing beside a baby tooth that has not fallen out. Begin gentle mouth handling early and introduce tooth brushing gradually with dog toothpaste, keeping the experience positive.

Play without creating chaos.

Short games of tug, searching and gentle toy play can build confidence and strengthen your relationship. Use toys large enough to keep teeth away from hands, allow pauses and teach a swap by offering a second toy or reward. Repeated jumping, sharp turns and forced running are not suitable exercise for growing joints.

Mouthing is normal puppy behaviour. Keep hands and clothing still, calmly redirect to an appropriate toy and provide a break when the puppy is over-tired. Avoid rough handling or punishment. Seek professional guidance if biting is causing injury, escalating, or linked with fear, pain or guarding.

Rest is part of the plan.

Puppies need a great deal of sleep. An increasingly wild or mouthy puppy may need a toilet opportunity and a calm, comfortable place to rest rather than more entertainment. A crate or playpen should be introduced gradually as a positive space, never used as punishment, and should not replace companionship, exercise or toilet breaks.

Practise very brief, comfortable separations while your puppy is settled, returning before they become distressed. Increase time slowly. Leaving a puppy to “cry it out” can make being alone more frightening.

A simple rhythm for the day

Think in short cycles: wake and toilet; food or a tiny training game; supervised exploration or gentle play; another toilet opportunity; then quiet rest. Vary activities according to your puppy’s age, health, confidence and breed or type rather than trying to exhaust them.